Vintage clothing is built differently. The fabrics are often thicker, the construction more considered, and the fibres - wool, cotton, silk, viscose - far more natural than the synthetic blends that dominate fast fashion today. That's exactly what makes vintage worth wearing. It's also what makes it worth caring for properly.
This guide covers everything you need to know about washing, drying, storing, and repairing your vintage pieces - including a dedicated section on our deadstock knitwear at the bottom.
Before You Wash Anything: Check the Label
Vintage garments (particularly anything pre-1980s) may have no care label at all, or one that's faded beyond reading. If that's the case, a general rule of thumb is: treat it as you would the most delicate version of that fabric.
Natural fibres like wool and silk are sensitive to heat and agitation. Cotton and linen are more forgiving but still benefit from a cooler wash. If in doubt, hand wash in cold water and handle gently.
If a label says dry clean only, take it seriously, especially for structured pieces like blazers, coats, or anything with interfacing. Washing these at home can cause shrinkage, distortion, or irreversible damage to the shape.
Pro tip: most modern washing machines have a dedicated handwash setting - in my experience this works well for the majority of vintage pieces without any shrinkage. I wash a lot of vintage, and I'd say it's let me down maybe 2% of the time. That said, always check the fabric first and use your own judgement... natural fibres can be unpredictable.
How to Wash Vintage Clothing
Machine washing
Most vintage cotton, denim, and polyester pieces can be machine washed, but always:
- Use a 30°C wash
- Select a gentle or delicate cycle
- Turn the garment inside out to protect the outer fabric and any embellishments
- Use a mild, pH-neutral detergent - avoid anything with bleach or optical brighteners
- Wash in a mesh laundry bag for extra protection
Many modern washing machines have a dedicated handwash setting - this is your best friend for anything you're not sure about.
One more thing worth knowing: vintage dyes weren't always as colourfast as modern ones, particularly on older cotton and deep dyed pieces. Before washing something for the first time, it's worth doing a quick test - pop it in the sink and run the tap. If colour runs, wash the piece on its own or pop a colour run catcher sheet in with it. Better to find out in the sink than in the wash with everything else.
Hand washing
For delicates, anything with embroidery, lace, or embellishments, and most knitwear - hand washing is the safest option.
Fill a basin with cold water and a small amount of gentle detergent. Submerge the garment and gently squeeze the water through the fabric. Do not wring, twist, or scrub. Rinse thoroughly with clean cold water until all detergent is gone, then gently press out the excess water by rolling the garment in a clean towel. Lay it flat on a clothing horse to dry completely.
What not to do
- Never use hot water on vintage fabrics - it causes shrinkage and can permanently damage natural fibres
- Never bleach vintage clothing, even whites - it weakens the fabric and causes yellowing over time
- Avoid fabric softener on wool - it breaks down the fibres
Drying Vintage Clothing
Heat is one of the biggest enemies of vintage clothing. As a rule: skip the tumble dryer entirely.
- Knitwear: Always lay flat to dry on a clean towel or drying rack. Hanging knitwear causes it to stretch out of shape under its own weight - once that happens, it's very difficult to reverse.
- Lighter pieces (shirts, blouses, dresses): Hang to air dry, ideally away from direct sunlight which can fade colours over time.
- Structured pieces (blazers, coats): Lay flat or hang on a padded hanger to maintain the shape while drying.
If something has come out of the wash slightly wrinkled, a cool iron or a handheld steamer works well on most vintage fabrics. Always check the fabric first — silk and acetate need very low heat, while cotton can handle more.
Storing Vintage Clothing
How you store vintage is just as important as how you wash it.
Folding vs hanging
Not everything should be on a hanger. Knitwear, heavy fabrics, and anything with stretch should be folded and stored flat - hanging causes distortion over time. Lighter woven pieces, blouses, and structured jackets can be hung, ideally on padded or wide hangers rather than thin wire ones.
Keep away from direct sunlight
Even indirect light causes colour fading over time. Store your most treasured pieces away from windows, or use a wardrobe with doors rather than open rails.
Protect against moths
Moths are the nemesis of natural fibres, particularly wool. Use cedar balls or lavender sachets rather than chemical moth balls, which can damage fabric and leave a lasting smell. If you store seasonal pieces, keep them in breathable cotton garment bags - never plastic, which traps moisture.
Avoid damp storage
Moisture leads to mildew, which can permanently damage vintage fabrics. Make sure pieces are completely dry before storing, and avoid storing in basements or any space prone to dampness.
Washing Less: The Most Sustainable Choice
The most sustainable thing you can do for your vintage wardrobe is also the simplest: wash less. Most garments don't need washing after every wear. Airing pieces out between wears, spot cleaning small marks, and using a fabric brush to freshen things up are all ways to extend the life of your clothing while reducing water and energy use.
This is especially true for wool, which is naturally antibacterial and odour-resistant - it genuinely doesn't need washing as often as you might think. I wash my wool pieces roughly once a season, and a good airing out between wears keeps them fresh in the meantime. A wool jumper worn a handful of times doesn't need a full wash, just some fresh air.
When Something Needs Repairing
Vintage clothing has often already lived a long life by the time it reaches you. The odd snag, loose button, or small hole is normal - and entirely fixable. Repairing rather than replacing is one of the most meaningful ways to engage with slow fashion.
At Reloved Studio, every piece is checked and any issues sorted before it goes live — but vintage clothing lives a full life, and sometimes things happen after it reaches you. If your piece needs a little attention down the line, we offer:
- Debobbling - removing pilling from knitwear and wool pieces to restore a likenew appearance
- Darning - repairing moth holes and small tears in knitwear using traditional hand darning techniques and visible mending
- Zipper replacement - replacing broken or damaged zippers on vintage garments
- Length adjustments - hemming and shortening to get the fit just right
- Stain removal - for those inevitable little accidents
- Upcycling - if a piece is damaged beyond a simple repair, we can look at reworking it into something new rather than writing it off entirely
Don't see what you need? Just drop us a message at hello@relovedstudio.co.uk - if we can help, we will.
Caring for our Deadstock Knitwear
Deadstock knitwear is a little different from standard vintage knitwear, and worth a dedicated section.
At Reloved Studio, our handmade knitwear is made from deadstock merino wool yarn - wool that didn't make it through industrial knitting mills and would otherwise go to waste. Because it's hand knitted and hand woven in small batches, each piece has a slightly different character depending on the yarn. Here's how to care for it properly.
Washing deadstock knitwear
Always hand wash in cold water with a gentle wool detergent. Our pieces are not suitable for machine washing - the hand-knitted and hand-woven construction means the tension and structure of the fabric is more delicate than industrially produced knitwear, and machine agitation can cause it to felt or distort.
Use a small amount of detergent, handle gently, and never wring or twist. Rinse thoroughly in cold water.
Drying deadstock knitwear
Always lay flat to dry on a clean dry towel. Reshape the piece gently while it's still damp - this is your opportunity to encourage it back into its original form. Never hang to dry, and never tumble dry.
Storing deadstock knitwear
Fold and store flat. Never hang. Keep in a breathable cotton bag if storing long term, and use cedar or lavender to deter moths - wool is particularly vulnerable.
Pilling
Some pilling is natural with wool, a fabric shaver or debobbler will remove this easily and restore the surface. If you'd like us to do this for you, our debobbling service is available - just get in touch.
A note on longevity
Deadstock knitwear, cared for properly, will last for many, many years. Wool is one of the most durable natural fibres - it regulates temperature, resists odours, and holds its shape well over time. The more care you put in, the better it gets.
Looking for more slow fashion advice? Browse the rest of our journal for guides on sourcing vintage, building a sustainable wardrobe, and the story behind Reloved Studio.
